Pisum sativum
The first thing you can sow when the ground thaws and the sweetest thing you will pick all spring, as long as you eat them within hours. Give them something to climb, keep picking, and accept that the heat of early summer ends them.
Hardy in zones 2a–11b
Self-fertile — one plant sets fruit. Flowers pollinate themselves before they open, so a single plant sets a full crop and varieties rarely cross. Nothing to do; bees are welcome but not needed. Flowers abort above about 27 °C, which is the heat limit, not a pollination failure.
Full sun, though in hot regions a little afternoon shade stretches the season by a week or two.
Keep the soil evenly moist, and do not let it dry once the flowers open; that is when the crop is decided.
Any well-drained soil that is not acidic; peas sulk below pH 6.0 and rot in cold wet ground.
Peas feed themselves; compost before sowing is enough, and extra nitrogen gives leaves instead of pods.
Give them netting, sticks or wire to climb before they come up; even dwarf types crop better off the ground.
Shelling peas are ready when the pod is plump and still bright green; snap peas when the pod is fat but the peas inside are small; snow peas when the pod is flat and as long as your finger.
Pods and peas
Ready 55–70 days from sowing
5–21 days after flowering
Shelling: plump glossy pod 60 to 90 mm at 18 to 21 days from flower. Snap: fat pod with small peas at 7 to 10 days. Snow: flat pod 60 to 80 mm at 5 to 8 days.
Pick at 2 1/2 – 3 1/2 in (60–90 mm)
Harvest repeatedly through the season
Keeps 3–7 days — fridge
Pick every two days for three to four weeks; the pea shoots and tendrils are also edible and can be pinched from the tops once plants are established.
Seed is in the cold ground and the first hooked shoot is pushing up.
Short plants with their first tendrils, reaching for the support.
Vines climbing fast, tendrils everywhere, no flowers yet.
White or purple flowers along the vine; from now on the soil must not dry out.
Pods filling from the bottom of the plant up; pick every other day for three or four weeks.
Shelling (garden) peas
Grown for the peas inside; the pod is tough and discarded. Pick 18 to 21 days after the flower when the pod is plump but still glossy. Sweetest eaten within hours.
Snap peas
Thick, crisp, rounded pods eaten whole with the peas inside. Pick 7 to 10 days after the flower when the pod has fattened but the peas are still small. Pull any string from the back.
Snow peas
Flat, tender pods picked young, 5 to 8 days after the flower, before the peas inside are more than bumps. The quickest type to crop and the one for stir-fries; tall varieties need a full frame.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Flowering · Harvest window
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on the softest new growth. They reproduce extremely fast in warm weather and are the main insect vector of plant viruses in the garden.
Stages affected: Flowering · Harvest window
The white dusting that ends most pea rows. It thrives in exactly the weather that ends the season anyway, warm dry days with dewy nights, and spreads through a crowded row in a week. Early sowings usually crop before it arrives; late sowings rarely escape it.
Stages affected: Seedling
A small grey-brown weevil whose adults scallop the edges of pea and bean leaves in spring while its grubs feed unseen on the nitrogen-fixing nodules below. The leaf notching looks alarming and is mostly harmless on established plants; the nodule damage is the real cost and shows as pale, slow plants on new ground.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling
Soft-bodied molluscs that feed at night and in wet weather, rasping holes in leaves. Seedlings and low soft foliage are the most at risk, and a single night can take out a row of young plants.
Stages affected: Germination
The name covers several different soil organisms doing the same thing: killing seedlings at or just below the soil line, either before they emerge or in the first fortnight after. Most of the damage in cold wet conditions comes from Pythium and Phytophthora, which are oomycetes rather than true fungi, but Rhizoctonia and Fusarium do the same job in warmer soil. The organisms are present in almost every garden soil and most reused potting mix; what turns them from harmless to lethal is cold, wet, airless conditions and a seedling that takes too long to get up. Utah State names it as one of the three problems on cilantro, which is a slow germinator sown into cool spring soil.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative · Flowering
A complex of soil organisms, a true fungus (Fusarium) and two water moulds (Aphanomyces and Pythium), that rot pea roots in cold wet or warm wet soil and cannot be told apart from above ground. It is the reason peas fail in a bed that grew them too often or lies wet, and the organisms persist for years once established.
Stages affected: Seedling
The caterpillars of several drab night-flying moths. They live at the soil surface and chew through the stems of young plants at ground level, so you almost always find the damage before you find the caterpillar.