Brassica oleracea var. acephala
The hardiest leaf in the garden. Sow it once in midsummer and it feeds you through frost and snow into the following spring, sweeter with every cold night. Plant it in spring instead and you will spend the summer sharing it with caterpillars.
Hardy in zones 2a–11b
Pollinated by insects — fruit sets only where bees and other pollinators reach the flowers. Grown for leaves, so pollination does not matter for the harvest. Kale is a biennial that flowers in its second spring after a cold winter; bees work the yellow flowers and it crosses freely with cabbage, broccoli and other Brassica oleracea, so seed saving needs isolation.
Full sun for the biggest plants, though it copes with half a day of shade better than most vegetables.
Give it 25 to 50 mm a week in the growing season; mature plants shrug off a dry week but the leaves toughen.
A firm, rich, well-drained soil that is not acidic; lime it if the pH is under 6.5, which also holds clubroot back.
A hungry leaf crop: compost before planting and a nitrogen top-up a month after transplanting keeps the leaves coming.
No support or pruning; pick the lower leaves and let the top keep growing.
Start picking the lowest leaves once they are the size of your hand, about two months from sowing, and keep going for months.
Leaves
Ready 50–75 days from sowing
Lower leaves 150 to 250 mm long and fully coloured; baby leaf at 75 to 100 mm from about 30 days.
Pick at 6–10 in (150–250 mm)
Harvest repeatedly through the season
Keeps 14–21 days — fridge
Pick the lowest leaves a few at a time; a midsummer-planted plant gives from autumn through winter into spring.
Seed is in and the two heart-shaped seed leaves are pushing up.
True leaves appear and the young plant is hardened off and set out at its final spacing.
A knee-high plant you pick the lower leaves from for months, right through winter.
In its second spring the plant throws up flower shoots; eat the buds like broccolini, then pull it.
Curly (Scotch)
Tightly frilled green or purple leaves on a stout stem. The hardiest type, standing −15 °C and below, and the one that sweetens most after frost; the frills hide aphids and caterpillars.
Lacinato (Tuscan)
Long, narrow, blistered blue-green leaves held like a palm. Tall and wide, so give it 45 cm; sweet and tender, slightly less hardy than curly, and the easiest to wash.
Red Russian (Siberian)
Flat, oak-leaf-shaped grey-green leaves with purple veins, botanically Brassica napus. Fastest to pick, 50 days, and the most tender raw, but softer in hard frost than the curly types.
Stages affected: Seedling · Cut and come again
The velvety green caterpillar of the small white butterfly, and the commonest pest of every brassica from kale and cabbage to broccoli and radish. It chews ragged holes from the leaf edge inward, leaves green droppings on everything, and arrives in three to five waves a season from the first warm days of spring until frost.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling
Tiny dark beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed and pepper leaves with small round holes. Established plants shrug them off, but on seedlings and on a crop grown for its leaves the damage matters, and on radish and other brassicas they arrive in numbers early in the season.
Stages affected: Seedling · Cut and come again
A soil-dwelling organism that makes brassica roots swell into distorted clubs so the plant cannot take up water. It is neither a fungus nor strictly a water mould but a plasmodiophorid, a separate single-celled lineage; what matters in practice is that fungicides do nothing against it. It is the most serious long-term disease of the cabbage family, and the reason is persistence: once a bed has it, the resting spores stay viable for up to twenty years. There is no cure, so the whole of management is keeping it out.
Stages affected: Cut and come again
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on the softest new growth. They reproduce extremely fast in warm weather and are the main insect vector of plant viruses in the garden.
Stages affected: Seedling
The larva of a small grey fly that tunnels into the roots of brassicas. On a root crop such as radish or turnip it ruins the part you eat, and on a young cabbage or broccoli it can kill the plant outright. It works entirely below ground, so the first sign above ground is a plant that wilts in the middle of the day and does not recover.
Stages affected: Cut and come again
A seed-borne bacterial disease of every brassica, from kale and cabbage to turnip and radish, that enters through the leaf edges and travels down the veins. It thrives in warm wet weather, spreads on splashing water and hands, and one infected seed in ten thousand is enough to start an outbreak. Infected plants cannot be cured.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling
The name covers several different soil organisms doing the same thing: killing seedlings at or just below the soil line, either before they emerge or in the first fortnight after. Most of the damage in cold wet conditions comes from Pythium and Phytophthora, which are oomycetes rather than true fungi, but Rhizoctonia and Fusarium do the same job in warmer soil. The organisms are present in almost every garden soil and most reused potting mix; what turns them from harmless to lethal is cold, wet, airless conditions and a seedling that takes too long to get up. Utah State names it as one of the three problems on cilantro, which is a slow germinator sown into cool spring soil.