Allium cepa
A long, slow crop that asks for one decision made right at the start: a variety whose day length matches your latitude. Get that right, keep it weeded and watered, and the rest is waiting for the tops to fall over.
Hardy in zones 3a–10b
Pollinated by insects — fruit sets only where bees and other pollinators reach the flowers. Grown for the bulb, so pollination does not matter for the harvest; a flower stalk in the first year is a fault called bolting, triggered by a cold spell on plants or sets that are already pencil-thick. Onions are biennials pollinated by flies and bees in their second year and cross freely within the species.
Full sun all day; onions in shade grow leaves but never bulb up.
About 25 mm a week, steady, until the tops start to fall; then stop so the bulbs can ripen.
A loose, rich, well-drained bed in full sun, weeded clean; onions lose to every weed.
Feed nitrogen while the leaves are growing, then stop; every leaf is a ring in the bulb, but late feeding gives thick necks.
No support or pruning; the skill is in choosing the right day-length variety and keeping the bed weed-free.
Lift the bulbs when half to two-thirds of the tops have fallen over and gone yellow; the skins will be papery and the necks soft.
Bulbs
Ready 90–120 days from sowing
Half to two-thirds of tops fallen and yellow, skins papery, necks soft; 60 to 100 mm across.
Pick at 2 1/2 – 4 in (60–100 mm)
Harvest once — a terminal harvest
Keeps 60–210 days — cool and dark
From sets 90 to 100 days; from seed 100 to 120. Cure two to three weeks before storing.
Green onions
Ready 50–70 days from sowing
Tops 15 cm or taller and the stem pencil-thick; pull before any bulb forms.
Pick at 3/8 – 5/8 in (8–15 mm)
Harvest repeatedly through the season
Keeps 7–14 days — fridge
Pull thinnings or every other set from a close-planted row; the rest grow on to bulbs.
Sets or seed are in and the first green spikes are showing.
Thin grassy plants, two to four leaves, easily lost to weeds.
Leaves building fast, eight to twelve of them, before the day-length trigger starts the bulb.
The bulb swells above the soil, the neck softens and the tops fall over one by one.
Bulbs lifted and laid out to cure for two to three weeks before storing.
Long-day storage
Bulb once days pass 14 hours: the spring-planted onion of northern gardens, pungent, firm and the only kind that keeps six months. Yellow, white and red strains; reds store a little less well.
Intermediate-day
Bulb at 12 to 14 hours, for the middle latitudes where neither extreme fits well. Mild to medium flavour, moderate storage of two to four months; many sweet named varieties are this type.
Short-day sweet
Bulb at 10 to 12 hours: planted in autumn in the south and harvested in late spring, large, mild and juicy with a high water content. Eat within a month or two; they do not store.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Maturation
Tiny slender insects, barely visible, that rasp the leaf surface of onions, leeks and garlic and suck the sap, leaving silvery streaks that turn the leaf tips brown. They explode in hot dry weather, five to eight generations a season, and a heavy infestation gives small distorted bulbs. They also spread iris yellow spot and other viruses.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling
The larva of a small grey fly that lays at the base of young onions, leeks, garlic and shallots in spring; the maggots tunnel into the stem base and bulb, kill seedlings outright and let soft rot into older bulbs. Worst in cool wet springs and in beds with fresh manure or last year's onion debris.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative · Maturation
The one allium disease that permanently ruins a bed. A soil fungus that rots the roots and basal plate of onions, garlic, leeks and shallots in cool soil, leaving white fluff and tiny black resting bodies that survive in the ground for twenty to forty years. There is no cure and rotation barely helps; everything is about keeping it out.
Stages affected: Maturation · Post-harvest
The grey mould that turns stored onions soft from the neck down six to twelve weeks after harvest. It infects the leaves and neck in the field without any visible sign, waits, and then rots the bulb in store; thick necks, bent-over tops, late nitrogen and a damp cure are what let it in. Garlic and shallots get the same thing.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Maturation
Not a disease and not a mistake: the plant switching from making leaves to making seed, which is what it was always going to do. It matters because in a leaf or root crop the switch ends the harvest — the plant pours everything into a flower stem, the leaves turn narrow and bitter, and a root goes woody. Lengthening days, heat and any check to growth all bring it forward, and which of those dominates depends on the crop. Cilantro and spinach are driven mainly by day length, lettuce and radish mainly by heat; biennials such as parsley and celery bolt after a spell of cold followed by warmth, so an overwintered plant runs to seed in spring. A dry spell or a transplant check will trigger any of them. Once a plant has committed there is no way back, so everything useful happens before it starts.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling
Soft-bodied molluscs that feed at night and in wet weather, rasping holes in leaves. Seedlings and low soft foliage are the most at risk, and a single night can take out a row of young plants.
Stages affected: Seedling
The caterpillars of several drab night-flying moths. They live at the soil surface and chew through the stems of young plants at ground level, so you almost always find the damage before you find the caterpillar.
Stages affected: Germination
The name covers several different soil organisms doing the same thing: killing seedlings at or just below the soil line, either before they emerge or in the first fortnight after. Most of the damage in cold wet conditions comes from Pythium and Phytophthora, which are oomycetes rather than true fungi, but Rhizoctonia and Fusarium do the same job in warmer soil. The organisms are present in almost every garden soil and most reused potting mix; what turns them from harmless to lethal is cold, wet, airless conditions and a seedling that takes too long to get up. Utah State names it as one of the three problems on cilantro, which is a slow germinator sown into cool spring soil.