Solanum tuberosum
The crop that gives the most food for the least skill: a seed potato, a trench, two hillings and ten weeks. The two things that go wrong, beetles and blight, both announce themselves on the leaves, so look at the leaves every few days and act the day you see them.
Hardy in zones 3a–10b
Self-fertile — one plant sets fruit. Grown for tubers from seed potatoes, so pollination plays no part in the crop. Many varieties flower and some set small green fruits like cherry tomatoes; these are poisonous and should not be eaten, and flowering is simply a sign that tubers are forming below.
Full sun; in shade you get tall weak haulm and a handful of small tubers.
Steady water, 25 to 50 mm a week, from the time the plants flower until the leaves start to yellow; that is when the tubers are made.
A deep, loose, slightly acid soil with plenty of compost; do not lime a potato bed.
A hungry crop: compost before planting and a feed when the tubers start to form, with more potassium than nitrogen.
No support; the work is earthing up the stems twice as they grow.
New potatoes from when the plants flower; storage potatoes two weeks after the haulm has died down and the skins no longer rub off.
Storage potatoes
Ready 90–120 days from sowing
Haulm yellowed and collapsed for two weeks, tubers 40 to 90 mm with skins that do not rub off.
Pick at 1 1/2 – 3 1/2 in (40–90 mm)
Harvest once — a terminal harvest
Keeps 60–240 days — cool and dark
Cure in the dark 10 to 14 days before storing; check monthly and remove any that soften or sprout.
New potatoes
Ready 60–75 days from sowing
Plants in flower; egg-sized tubers 30 to 50 mm felt out from the side of the ridge.
Pick at 1–2 in (30–50 mm)
Harvest repeatedly through the season
Keeps 5–14 days — fridge
Thin skins that rub off; eat within days. Take a few from each plant by hand and firm the soil back so the rest grow on.
Seed pieces in the trench, sprouting underground; shoots show in two to four weeks.
Leafy haulm growing fast; earth up twice before the plants close over the rows.
Flowers open and the first tubers form below; water steadily and dig the first new potatoes.
Tubers swelling to full size, then the haulm yellows and collapses; lift two weeks after it dies.
Lifted tubers curing in the dark for ten to fourteen days before going into store.
Early (new potato)
Fast varieties lifted 60 to 90 days from planting as new potatoes with thin skins. Smaller yield, dug before blight and beetles peak, and the best choice for containers. Eat within a week or two.
Maincrop (storage)
Full-season varieties, 100 to 130 days, with thick skins that cure and store six months. The biggest yields and the ones most exposed to blight, so choose resistant varieties in wet regions.
Salad and fingerling
Waxy, firm-fleshed types with long or small tubers that hold together when boiled. Mid-season, 80 to 110 days, often lower yielding but prized; plant a little closer and lift carefully, they bruise.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Flowering · Maturation
The striped yellow beetle and its fat red larvae that can strip a potato patch to stalks in a fortnight, and will take eggplant, tomato and tomatillo when potatoes are not on offer. It overwinters in the soil of last year's bed, arrives as the shoots come up, and runs through two generations in a season. It has beaten more insecticides than any other garden pest, which is why hand-picking matters.
Stages affected: Flowering · Maturation · Post-harvest
The disease of the Irish famine and still the one that can take a potato or tomato patch from green to black in a week of cool wet weather. A water mould whose spores blow in on the wind, it rots leaves, stems, tomato fruit and potato tubers, and it survives only in living tissue, so volunteer potatoes and leftover tubers are where it comes from each year.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Flowering
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on the softest new growth. They reproduce extremely fast in warm weather and are the main insect vector of plant viruses in the garden.
Stages affected: Maturation
Soft-bodied molluscs that feed at night and in wet weather, rasping holes in leaves. Seedlings and low soft foliage are the most at risk, and a single night can take out a row of young plants.
Stages affected: Flowering · Maturation
The commonest leaf disease of garden tomatoes and a regular one on potatoes, and occasionally on peppers and aubergines. It works up from the soil in warm wet weather, stripping leaves from the bottom of the plant; on tomatoes that exposes the fruit to sunscald, on potatoes it shortens the season and trims the yield. Hungry or stressed plants suffer most.
Stages affected: Flowering · Maturation
The rough corky patches on potato skins that make a crop ugly without making it inedible. A soil-dwelling bacterium that attacks tubers through the breathing pores while they are forming, worst in dry, alkaline soil; it also marks beet, radish, carrot and turnip. Entirely cosmetic in the kitchen and almost entirely preventable in the bed.
Stages affected: Germination · Vegetative
Tiny dark beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed and pepper leaves with small round holes. Established plants shrug them off, but on seedlings and on a crop grown for its leaves the damage matters, and on radish and other brassicas they arrive in numbers early in the season.
Stages affected: Germination · Vegetative
The caterpillars of several drab night-flying moths. They live at the soil surface and chew through the stems of young plants at ground level, so you almost always find the damage before you find the caterpillar.