Raphanus sativus
The fastest thing you can grow: sown in cool weather, some varieties are on the plate inside a month. Almost everything that goes wrong comes down to three things — sown too thick, left too long, or grown in heat.
Full sun. In shade a radish makes leaves and no root, which is the commonest way this crop disappoints.
Keep the soil evenly damp. Dry spells make radishes woody and fiercely hot, and a soaking after a dry spell splits them.
Loose stone-free soil. Anything that obstructs the root makes it fork or stay stunted.
Almost nothing. A little compost before sowing is plenty, and too much nitrogen gives leaves instead of radishes.
Nothing to tie or prune. Two habits are the whole craft: thin them ruthlessly as soon as they are up, and sow a short row every ten days instead of one long row.
Pull them at about 25 mm across, roughly 25 days after sowing. Late is much worse than early: a few days too long and they go pithy and fierce.
Up in five to ten days. Radish will germinate in genuinely cold soil, which is why it is the first thing you can sow.
Thin them now, to 5 cm apart. This is the one job that decides whether you get radishes at all.
Leaves build for a week or two. Keep the soil evenly damp and do not feed.
The root swells fast. Warm weather now is what turns a good radish woody and fierce.
A few days, not a few weeks. Pull one to check, then take the whole batch.
A stalk rises from the centre and the root goes woody. Leave one plant to flower for the bees and the seed pods.
Round or globe
The familiar red globe picked at 20 to 30 mm across in 25 to 30 days. The fastest type and the least forgiving about being left in the ground.
French breakfast
Elongated roots 50 to 70 mm long, red with a white tip, milder than the globes. Holds its quality a little longer but still goes pithy if left.
Daikon and winter radish
A different crop on a different timetable: 50 to 70 days, roots from 300 g to over a kilogram, thinned to 100 to 150 mm and sown in midsummer for autumn. Stores for months.
Seed pod radish
Grown deliberately for its crisp peppery seed pods rather than a root, so bolting is the goal rather than the failure. Useful where summers are too hot for root types.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling · Vegetative
Tiny dark beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed and pepper leaves with small round holes. Established plants shrug them off, but on seedlings and on a crop grown for its leaves the damage matters, and on radish and other brassicas they arrive in numbers early in the season.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative · Maturation
Not a disease. A bed of healthy leafy plants that never form a usable root, which is the single commonest way a radish or turnip sowing disappoints. It has three ordinary causes and they are all decided in the first two weeks: sown too thickly and never thinned, too little light, or too much nitrogen. None of them can be corrected once the window has passed.
Stages affected: Maturation · Harvest window
Not a disease. A root that has gone dry and woolly inside, or so pungent it is unpleasant to eat, or both. It is the price of leaving a fast crop too long, of growing it in heat, or of letting the bed dry out. The outside often looks perfect, so it is usually discovered when the radish is cut or bitten.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative · Maturation
The larva of a small grey fly that tunnels into the roots of brassicas. On a root crop such as radish or turnip it ruins the part you eat, and on a young cabbage or broccoli it can kill the plant outright. It works entirely below ground, so the first sign above ground is a plant that wilts in the middle of the day and does not recover.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative · Maturation
A soil-dwelling organism that makes brassica roots swell into distorted clubs so the plant cannot take up water. It is neither a fungus nor strictly a water mould but a plasmodiophorid, a separate single-celled lineage; what matters in practice is that fungicides do nothing against it. It is the most serious long-term disease of the cabbage family, and the reason is persistence: once a bed has it, the resting spores stay viable for up to twenty years. There is no cure, so the whole of management is keeping it out.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Maturation
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on the softest new growth. They reproduce extremely fast in warm weather and are the main insect vector of plant viruses in the garden.