Salvia rosmarinus
An evergreen Mediterranean shrub that survives winter outdoors only where it stays mild; elsewhere grow it in a clay pot and bring it in before frost. Start from a plant or cutting, keep it on the dry side, and pick a little at a time.
Hardy in zones 8a–10b
Pollinated by insects — fruit sets only where bees and other pollinators reach the flowers. Grown for leaves, so pollination does not matter for the harvest. The pale blue flowers in late winter and spring are an early food for bees. Seed is slow and irregular and plants vary, so named varieties come from cuttings.
Full sun outdoors, and the sunniest cool window you have indoors in winter.
Water new plants until they root in, then let the soil dry between waterings; overwatering kills more rosemary than anything else.
A light, sandy or gravelly soil that drains fast, neutral to slightly alkaline.
Feed lightly; too much fertiliser cuts the fragrance.
No support; pinch young plants, pick little and often, and shape it lightly after flowering.
Cut sprigs any time it is growing; for drying, cut before it flowers.
Leaves
Ready 30–60 days from sowing
Soft leafy tips 10 to 15 cm long; for drying, before the flowers open.
Harvest every year — a perennial
Keeps 180–365 days — cool and dark
Dried, whole, airtight. From a bought plant, light picking within a month of planting.
A young plant settling in, in the ground or in its summer pot; water it until it is growing away.
Grows on through summer into a bushy, aromatic shrub; pick sprigs as you need them.
Winter: outdoors only in mild areas; elsewhere a pot comes in before frost to a cool, bright window.
Upright rosemary
Tuscan Blue, Gorizia, Majorca Pink and similar: upright shrubs 60 cm to 2 m with the strongest stems for cooking. Hardy to about zone 8; the usual kitchen choice.
Hardy rosemary
Arp and Madalene Hill: the most cold-tolerant selections, hardy to zone 7a and to 6a in a sheltered, well-drained spot (Wisconsin). Worth trying outdoors at the cold edge.
Prostrate and trailing rosemary
Prostratus, Huntington Carpet, Blue Rain and Lockwood de Forest: 15 to 60 cm tall and spreading, for wall tops, banks and spilling over the edge of a pot or hanging basket.
Stages affected: Dormant · At planting
Soil-borne water moulds that rot the roots and crown of plants growing in soil that stays saturated: fruit and nut trees, strawberries (where one species causes red stele), raspberries, peppers and many ornamentals. They need free water to swim to the roots, so this is a drainage and watering disease above all. Once the crown is rotted there is no cure; everything is prevention.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Dormant
Mites under 1.3 mm that feed on the undersides of leaves and spin fine webbing. Populations explode in hot dusty dry conditions and after broad-spectrum sprays kill their predators.
Stages affected: Dormant
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects coated in white, cottony wax. A pest of plants kept or overwintered indoors and in greenhouses: rosemary, citrus, coleus, jade, cacti and many houseplants. They usually arrive on a new plant or on one brought in from outside for the winter.
Stages affected: Dormant
The soft grey fuzz that turns ripe strawberries, raspberries, grapes and tomatoes to mush within a day of warm wet weather, and rots the crowded centres of low herbs such as thyme. One fungus with hundreds of hosts, living on dead plant material everywhere; on fruit it infects the flowers at bloom and waits in the green fruit until it ripens. Wet tissue, crowded plants and overripe or damaged growth are what it needs.
Stages affected: Dormant
A white, talcum-like coating on leaves and stems caused by many closely related fungi, each with a narrow host range: the mildew on one plant rarely spreads to an unrelated one nearby. On herbs such as dill and rosemary and on many flowers it is mostly cosmetic, but heavy infections yellow and drop leaves. The crop-specific mildews of cucurbits and peas have their own records.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Dormant
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on the softest new growth. They reproduce extremely fast in warm weather and are the main insect vector of plant viruses in the garden.