Spinacia oleracea
The fastest leaf crop in the garden and the first to give up when the days lengthen. Sow it early and sow it late, pick the outer leaves, and when it stretches in late spring let it go. It is answering the calendar, not anything you did.
Hardy in zones 2a–11b
Pollinated by the wind — plants set better in a group than standing alone. Grown for leaves, so pollination does not matter for the harvest. Plants are usually either male or female and shed pollen on the wind; if you are saving seed, keep a block of plants rather than a single row and isolate from other spinach by at least 1 km.
Give it full sun in spring and autumn, and a little afternoon shade if you are pushing it into early summer.
Keep the soil evenly moist; a dry spell is the quickest way to turn the leaves bitter and send the plant to seed.
A rich, moisture-holding soil that is not acidic; spinach sulks in sour ground.
A compost-rich bed carries a spring crop; a light nitrogen top-up when you thin keeps the leaves coming.
No support or pruning; just pick the outer leaves and leave the centre to keep growing.
Start picking when the outer leaves are the size of your hand; do not wait for a full plant.
Leaves
Ready 37–50 days from sowing
Outer leaves 75 to 150 mm long and fully coloured; baby leaf at 50 to 75 mm.
Pick at 3–6 in (75–150 mm)
Harvest repeatedly through the season
Keeps 7–14 days — fridge
Pick outer leaves repeatedly; a single plant gives three or four pickings over four to six weeks until it bolts.
Seed is in the ground and the first two narrow seed leaves are pushing through.
The first rounded true leaves appear and the plants need thinning to their final spacing.
A full rosette of leaves you can pick from every few days for a month or more.
The centre stretches into a flower stalk and the leaves turn bitter; the crop is over.
Savoy
Deeply crinkled, dark, thick leaves. The hardiest type for overwintering and the best texture cooked, but the crinkles trap grit and aphids so it needs careful washing.
Semi-savoy
Lightly crinkled leaves held more upright, so they stay cleaner. Most modern garden varieties are this type, with the best downy mildew and bolting resistance.
Smooth-leaf
Flat, spade-shaped leaves that wash in one rinse. The baby-leaf and salad type: fast, tender, sown thickly and cut young, but the quickest to bolt.
Stages affected: Seedling · Cut and come again
A small grey fly whose maggots tunnel inside the leaves of spinach, beet and chard, leaving pale blotches that ruin the leaf for eating. It rarely kills a plant but can spoil most of a spring crop, and it moves freely between the three host crops and lambsquarters.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling
Soft-bodied molluscs that feed at night and in wet weather, rasping holes in leaves. Seedlings and low soft foliage are the most at risk, and a single night can take out a row of young plants.
Stages affected: Cut and come again
The most important disease of spinach, a water mould that spreads in cool damp weather and can take out a bed in a week. It only attacks spinach, so it does not move to your beet, chard or lettuce, but new races keep appearing that overcome resistant varieties.
Stages affected: Flowering · Cut and come again
Not a disease and not a mistake: the plant switching from making leaves to making seed, which is what it was always going to do. It matters because in a leaf or root crop the switch ends the harvest — the plant pours everything into a flower stem, the leaves turn narrow and bitter, and a root goes woody. Lengthening days, heat and any check to growth all bring it forward, and which of those dominates depends on the crop. Cilantro and spinach are driven mainly by day length, lettuce and radish mainly by heat; biennials such as parsley and celery bolt after a spell of cold followed by warmth, so an overwintered plant runs to seed in spring. A dry spell or a transplant check will trigger any of them. Once a plant has committed there is no way back, so everything useful happens before it starts.
Stages affected: Flowering · Cut and come again
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on the softest new growth. They reproduce extremely fast in warm weather and are the main insect vector of plant viruses in the garden.
Stages affected: Seedling
Tiny dark beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed and pepper leaves with small round holes. Established plants shrug them off, but on seedlings and on a crop grown for its leaves the damage matters, and on radish and other brassicas they arrive in numbers early in the season.
Stages affected: Germination · Seedling
The name covers several different soil organisms doing the same thing: killing seedlings at or just below the soil line, either before they emerge or in the first fortnight after. Most of the damage in cold wet conditions comes from Pythium and Phytophthora, which are oomycetes rather than true fungi, but Rhizoctonia and Fusarium do the same job in warmer soil. The organisms are present in almost every garden soil and most reused potting mix; what turns them from harmless to lethal is cold, wet, airless conditions and a seedling that takes too long to get up. Utah State names it as one of the three problems on cilantro, which is a slow germinator sown into cool spring soil.