Capsicum annuum
Slower and fussier than a tomato, and worth the wait: a pepper left to ripen to red or yellow is a different vegetable from the green one. It wants warmth at both ends of the day, and it sheds its flowers if the nights turn cold or the days turn fierce.
Self-fertile — one plant sets fruit. Self-pollinating and needs no second plant or insect, though a gentle daily shake or a breeze improves set. Flowers that drop without setting are almost always a temperature problem rather than a pollination one.
Full sun and warmth. Peppers in shade grow slowly and set few fruit.
Water deeply once or twice a week and keep it steady. Swinging between dry and soaked is what causes the dark sunken patch on the fruit base.
Any decent well-drained soil with compost worked in. Peppers are not fussy about soil but they are fussy about warmth.
Compost before planting, then a light feed about four weeks after planting out and again four weeks later.
Give each plant a stake or a small cage. A loaded pepper plant tips over or snaps at the base, and unlike a tomato it should not be pruned.
Pick green once the fruit is full size and the walls feel thick, about three to four weeks after the flower. Or leave it another two to three weeks to colour up.
Ripe coloured fruit
35–45 days after flowering
Colour fully changed to red yellow orange purple or chocolate depending on variety, with no green patches leftSkin glossy and taut rather than wrinklingColour change starts at the blossom end and spreads up toward the stemA fruit part-coloured will finish ripening off the plant but will not get sweeter
Pick at 3–5 in (75–125 mm)
Harvest repeatedly through the season
Keeps 5–10 days — fridge
35 to 45 days from flowering to full colour (Utah State), so roughly two to three weeks longer than the same fruit picked green. Sweetness and vitamin C both rise substantially over that period — a red pepper is not simply an older green one. It keeps less well than green fruit because it is riper: five to ten days in the fridge rather than one to two weeks, and the same chilling-injury threshold applies below about 7 C. Every fruit held to colour slows new fruit set, so total weight per plant is lower than a green-picked plant. Late in the season pick any part-coloured fruit before the first frost and let it finish indoors.
Slow and fussy about warmth. Pepper seed wants about 27 C to come up and will sit and sulk below 20.
Eight to ten weeks indoors under strong light before they go out. Do not rush them into cold ground.
The plant builds its frame. Stake it now, feed it once at four weeks, and pinch off the very first flower.
Small white flowers open. Peppers drop them if nights fall below about 13 C or days climb above about 32 C.
Fruit fills out over three to four weeks. Keep the water even and leave the leaves alone.
Pick green from about two months after planting out, or leave fruit on to colour. Both are fine; they are different crops.
Bell (blocky)
Thick-walled, square-shouldered fruit with three or four lobes. The supermarket shape, and the slowest of the sweet types to colour up.
Elongated sweet
Long tapering fruit with thinner walls, such as Italian frying, Cubanelle and Corno di Toro. Sets more freely in heat and colours earlier.
Miniature and snacking
Small fruit on compact plants. Earliest to colour, heaviest croppers by fruit count, and the easiest of the sweet types to grow in a pot.
Stages affected: Fruiting · Harvest window
Not a disease. Sunburn on fruit that has lost the leaf cover shading it — a pale sunken papery patch on the side facing the afternoon sun, which then often rots where soft fungi move into the dead tissue. It is nearly always self-inflicted, by pruning a crop that should not be pruned or by stripping leaves after a disease has already thinned the canopy.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Flowering · Fruiting · Harvest window
A seed-borne bacterium that spots the leaves and scabs the fruit of peppers and tomatoes. On pepper it is the more damaging of the two, because a spotted fruit is unsellable and unappetising and heavy leaf loss exposes the rest of the crop to sunscald. Nothing cures it, so it is managed by clean seed, rotation and keeping out of the bed while the foliage is wet.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative · Flowering
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on the softest new growth. They reproduce extremely fast in warm weather and are the main insect vector of plant viruses in the garden.
Stages affected: Vegetative · Flowering · Fruiting
A large green caterpillar, the larva of a hawk moth, that feeds on the leaves flowers and fruit of tomato and its relatives. The tobacco hornworm is an equally common close relative and is managed identically.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative · At planting
The caterpillars of several drab night-flying moths. They live at the soil surface and chew through the stems of young plants at ground level, so you almost always find the damage before you find the caterpillar.
Stages affected: Seedling · Vegetative
Tiny dark beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed and pepper leaves with small round holes. Established plants shrug them off, but on seedlings and on a crop grown for its leaves the damage matters, and on radish and other brassicas they arrive in numbers early in the season.
Stages affected: Fruiting · Harvest window
Not an infection but a disorder: a firm dark patch at the base of the fruit caused by calcium failing to reach the fruit as it grows, almost always because soil moisture swung between wet and dry. Tomato pepper aubergine and squash all get it.